Graham Superchager Mount update...

Found some time to mess with the long ongoing project of mounting a Graham supercharge on a Dodge 218/230 engine.

The first one that I did years ago, I mounted the alternator on the other side off of the front mount.  Can't say that I really cared for that and figured since then that there has to be a better way.  So, this one, I wanted to tuck it in under the supercharger itself.

Unfortunately, I am going to have to run two belts which means that I have to machine a couple of pulleys....So, that's the next step.

Model A Truck....more rust repair....

This time, it's the gas tank....

The entire bottom was riddled with pinholes so I decided that it would be easier to replace everything in one large patch instead of a bunch of smaller ones.  Plus, this allows me to sand blast the inside before welding it up.  Like all the gas tanks I build, the plan is to have the inside coated . It makes the process so much easier when it's all clean.


After I decided where I needed to cut, the patch panel was cut out.  The cleco's were used to hold the panel down while a line was marked around on the gas tank.  In theory, if I cut exactly on the line, the patch should fit perfectly...

Once the bottom was off, I could asses the condition of the baffles.  Unfortunately, they were pretty rusty with about the lower 1" completely gone.  So, time to make some new ones.  With some scrap pieces of wood lying around, I cut two identical templates.  A piece of 18ga was cut roughly to the desired shape and then sandwiched between the wood.  The edges were then hammered down.

 Once all four of the baffles were made, they were sandblasted and spot welded together.

And now comes the long task of fitting and welding.  Since there is no way to hammer the weld back out, patience is key in not causing excessive warping.  Weld a little bit, let it cool, repeat until it's done...It's as simple as that.

Once the wire loom is welded back on, I'll give it a final sandblasting and take it to get the inside coated.

Model A cowl patch...

Since the passenger side lower cowl patch is done, it's time to move onto the driver side.  I received several inquires on how I made the patch piece, so here you go....


The first step is to bend a 90 degree lip on the panel. This is the bottom and will attach underneath the sub rail structure via some spot welds...

Next, using some joggle dies on the Pulmax, I made the lower body line.

Now, this doesn't exactly make the lower body line a true copy of the original.  It's relatively flat where as the original has a slight crown.  I really need to just spend the time and make some dies...

But after spending some time lightly hammering the patch over a piece of round stock, it turns out fairly close...

When welding panels in, it's all about the fit...

The panel is going to warp...it happens.  The weld shrinks when it cools and this distorts the metal.  By hammering and dollying the weld, it can be stretched back out usually alleviating most of the distortion.

It is important to get the edges of the patch flush with the original panel so that it can be ground smooth.  Don't spend too much time in one spot with the grinder.  It is amazing how hot a sanding disc can get the metal and cause it to distort.

Model A truck updates....

In between projects, I have had some time to work on the Model A truck.  Initially, I was focused on the T5 conversion but while I've been waiting on parts to get splined, I moved onto tackling some of the rust issues.

In order to mock everything up, I removed the original cross member.  I knew that it was going to need modified, so I figured that I would be easier done out of the car.  After I got the T5 installed, I stood back and noticed that the transmission hung down a bit.  On a fully fendered car, this wouldn't be an issue but since I wanted to run fenderless, something had to be done..

My solution was to raise the back of the engine an 1" and the front by 1/2".  This solved several issues.  Not only did this raise the transmission up to an acceptable level, it helped maintain a better drive shaft angle since the truck is going to be lowered 4-5 inches.  Also, it raised the pivot ball on the front wish bone which will compensate for the reversed eye front spring and maintain the proper caster.

The rear engine mounts were cut apart and an inch wide spacer added...

 ...then ground down...

In the front, a 1/2" spacer was added to the top.  The original holes were then filled and redrilled 1/2" higher.

Because the rear of the transmission essentially was pitched up several inches, the original cross member would have had to be severely cut.  This would have dramatically impacted it's strength.  So, the easiest thing to do was to build a new one loosely modeled off of an F1 cross member.  If I would have left the engine mounts alone, there would have been plenty of material to modify the original cross member.

At this point, I was being held up waiting for parts.  So, I turned my focus on fixing the rust.  The firewall was actually in really nice shape except for the large hole cut for the heater.

As common with most A cowl sections in Ohio, the lower bead was rusted.  I have found it much easier to drill the spot welds and remove the panel from the cowl.  There really isn't enough room to get in behind and hammer the weld when it is left in place....though, I assume this is how most patch panels are welded in.

I have never been really fond of the aftermarket patch panels available for Model A's as the material always seem too soft.  Having a Pullmax in the shop definitely makes things easier....

When I acquired the doors, the previous owner started a patch job.  It certainty was savable, but the skin also looked like it was hit by several shotgun blasts.  So, instead of trying to shrink all of the material, it was just easier to make my own skin and replace from the belt line down.

Slowly, it's starting to look like something....

'36 Firewall

As I start finally wrapping up the '36, one area that still needed attention was the firewall.  Along the way, someone added a battery box to the passenger's side.  I suspect it was the same sculptor that did the rust "repairs" before as there was copious amount of filler covering everything.

Other that the fact that it is an eyesore to begin with, the original installation didn't appear to be to terrible....

...of course, that changed as soon as I started grinding.

Oh how I love rivets and Bondo......

T5 to Ford '28-'48 Torque Tube Adapters....

I have been answering a ton of calls about the progress of our new T5 to torque Tube Adapters.  Here are some progress pics to wet your appetite...


 Initial mock up with '83-'88 4x4 S10 T5

 Machining progress....

 Drive line shortening....