262's and T5's were never meant for '37 Hudsons...

Even though I always try and keep the transmission completely stock when developing an adapter, unfortunately on this one, there is going to have be some modifications to the bearing retainer and throwout bearing.

The stock '94-'95 s-10 bearing retainer measures 1.375" diameter and the ID of the stock Hudson throwout bearing measures 1.360".  So, a little needs to be turned off of the bearing retainer OD.  Also, due to the lip on the face of the throwout bearing, the length of the bearing retainer has to be shorten as well.

The stock Hudson input shaft is 1" in diameter where as the '94-'95 S-10 is 1-1/8'.  This requires the smaller ID lip on the face of the throwout bearing to be opened up and a little trimmed off of the seal.  I quickly made up a tool out of some tubing to cut the leather seal.

With this particular adapter, it first has to be bolted to the bell housing, then the assembly bolted to the transmission and finally it all can be bolted to the engine.  With using the stock bell housing, it helps not only with the placement of the engine because of the integrated rear mount but also with the clutch linkage.  It should use all stock Hudson parts.

 The engine is finally sitting where it belongs.  There is going to be quite a bit of work regarding the front mounts to get them to work but it is definitely feasible.  It appears that sometime in this car's past that someone had cut the original mounts out and installed another engine.  Then later, someone reinstalled the original mounts.  They they are fairly thin and flimsy, so we are just going to redo it all and make it right.  At least the motor is where it needs to be and the transmission clears everything nicely.  The shifter ended up in a good position as well.

Hudson T5 progress...

Found sometime last night to machine the pilot bearing for the S-10 T5 Conversion on the 262 Hudson engine.  The original pilot bearing was in fact an actual roller bearing.  The ID was fairly small and I didn't want to have to modify the input shaft of the T5, so a new plain bearing style was made out of bearing bronze.

Because this engine uses a wet clutch, it is important to add a small amount of RTV sealant on the flywheel mounting face.

Finally out of storage...

I finally went last night and got my '46 Nash out of storage.  Off course, it wouldn't start and there were several mice that were upset at losing their home but at least it's one step closer to getting back on the road. 

Smokey burnouts...

Went to a local car show and there was a burnout contest.  The Ford had a SOHC 427 in it...pretty cool.

Done!

The spare tire is mounted and everything is bolted back up.  This truck is done....

Onto the next one...

You don't see this everyday....

I was working behind the house last night and heard quite a bit of commotion.  I looked up just in time to see the Montgolfier brothers crash landing their hot air balloon in the front yard.  They had 5 clear acres to land and still managed to land on two of the three trees in the front yard....awesome....good job.

The dog didn't seem too impressed...she was just staring at her ball waiting for me to throw it...

Ready for some paint...

Over the weekend, we were able to  finish up all of the metalwork on the spare tire cutout.  It didn't turn out too bad and with a couple coats of high build primer, it's going to be ready for paint. 

If you take your time and only weld in small amounts, then hammer the welds as they are cooling, you can keep everyhting fairly flat and even with minimum warpage.  When you weld, the panel will warp...it's going to happen.  As the weld cools, it shrinks and puts everything in a bind.  This shrinkage causes the warpage and the hammering stretches it back out. The most important thing is to make sure the two pieces being welded together are even with each other.

With everything ground down, hide it all with some high build primer and it starts looking pretty good...

With a little sanding with 220 then 440 grit, we'll be ready for color.